Mortgage Affordability Calculator
Find the home price your income actually supports, using the same 28/36 debt-to-income rule most lenders apply — with your existing debts, down payment, and property costs included.
Written by Daniel Mercer, CFP® · Reviewed by Sarah Lindqvist, CFA
Last reviewed:
Home price you can afford
$331,108
Using the 28/36 rule — limited by the housing (28%) cap
- Maximum loan amount
- $291,108
- Monthly housing budget
- $2,240.00
- Principal & interest
- $1,840.00
- Tax & insurance
- $400.00
- Down payment
- $40,000
What this calculator does
“How much house can I afford?” is really a question about monthly cash flow, not house prices. This calculator works the way an underwriter does: it starts from your gross income, applies the 28/36 affordability caps, subtracts your existing debts and the property’s carrying costs, and only then converts the surviving monthly budget into a loan — and the loan plus your down payment into a price. The result shows which constraint binds you (housing cap or total-debt cap), so you know exactly which lever to pull to afford more.
How the math works
Three steps, in the order lenders think:
- Housing budget = the lesser of 28% of gross monthly income, or 36% of income minus existing debt payments.
- P&I budget = housing budget − monthly property tax and insurance.
- Maximum loan — inverse amortization, solving the standard payment formula for principal:
P = M · ((1 + r)ⁿ − 1) / (r(1 + r)ⁿ)
Maximum price = loan + down payment.
A worked example
Household income $96,000 ($8,000/month), $500 in existing monthly debts, $40,000 down, 6.5% for 30 years, $400 monthly tax and insurance:
- Housing cap: 28% × 8,000 = $2,240; total-debt cap: 36% × 8,000 − 500 = $2,380. The housing cap binds.
- P&I budget: 2,240 − 400 = $1,840
- Maximum loan: about $291,100 — the principal $1,840/month supports at 6.5% over 30 years
- Maximum price ≈ $331,100 with the down payment
Now watch the debt lever: raise existing debts to $1,500/month and the total-debt cap drops to $1,380, undercutting the housing cap — the affordable price falls by roughly $136,000. Once the debt cap binds, every monthly debt dollar you eliminate buys back about $158 of loan, so clearing a $460 car payment before house-hunting can restore roughly $70,000 of buying power.
Practical tips
- Budget backward from your own comfort, not the cap. The 28% cap assumes average spending. If you have childcare costs, high medical expenses, or aggressive savings goals, decide your own housing number first and treat the calculator’s answer as an upper bound.
- Kill small debts before applying. When the total-debt cap binds, a $300/month card minimum reduces your housing budget by $300 — which at 6.5%/30yr is roughly $47,000 of loan. Small balances are cheap to clear and expensive to keep.
- Don’t forget the costs beyond PITI. Maintenance (commonly estimated at 1% of home value per year), utilities on a bigger space, and HOA dues live outside the DTI math but inside your actual budget.
- Rate-shop before price-shop. At a $1,840 P&I budget, the difference between 6.5% and 6.0% is about $16,000 of extra loan. A half-point of rate is worth more than most negotiation wins on price.
Which constraint binds — and why it matters
The calculator names the binding cap. If it’s the housing (28%) cap, your income is the limit: only more income or a smaller tax/insurance bill raises the number. If it’s the total-debt (36%) cap, your existing debts are the limit — every dollar of monthly payment you eliminate converts to about $158 of additional loan at 6.5% over 30 years. Check your position with the DTI calculator, then model the actual monthly payment on the mortgage calculator before you fall in love with a listing.
Frequently asked questions
- What is the 28/36 rule?
- A long-standing lending guideline: housing costs (mortgage payment, property tax, insurance) should not exceed 28% of gross monthly income, and all debt payments combined — housing plus cars, student loans, and card minimums — should not exceed 36%. The calculator applies both caps and uses whichever is tighter for your situation.
- Why does the calculator show a lower number than my lender's pre-approval?
- Pre-approvals often stretch toward the legal qualified-mortgage ceiling of 43% DTI (sometimes beyond, with compensating factors). The 28/36 rule is deliberately more conservative — it describes what's comfortably affordable, not the maximum a lender will hand you. Plenty of foreclosure stories start with borrowing the full pre-approved amount.
- What counts as "existing monthly debts"?
- Recurring obligations that appear on your credit report: car payments, student loan payments, personal loans, and credit card minimums. Utilities, groceries, insurance you'd pay anyway, and subscriptions don't count in DTI math — lenders assume those fit inside the remaining 64% of income.
- How should I estimate property tax and insurance?
- A workable starting point is 1–2% of home value per year for property tax (varies enormously by state) plus roughly 0.5% for homeowners insurance, divided by 12. For a $330,000 home that's in the neighborhood of $400–650 a month. Once you're serious about a specific area, look up its actual millage rate — it moves the affordable price meaningfully.
- Does a bigger down payment let me afford a more expensive house?
- Dollar for dollar, yes — the down payment adds directly to the maximum price on top of the loan your income supports. It also improves the loan itself: 20% down avoids PMI, which frees monthly budget that the 28% housing cap can then absorb as principal and interest.
Sources
Written by
Daniel is a Certified Financial Planner™ with 12 years of experience helping households manage debt, savings, and retirement planning. He writes ToolGrym’s calculator guides and explains the math behind every tool.
Reviewed by
Sarah is a CFA charterholder who reviews every ToolGrym calculator and article for mathematical accuracy. She has 10 years of experience in fixed-income analytics and consumer lending models.