Roth IRA Calculator
Project your Roth IRA's tax-free growth — and put a dollar figure on the tax you avoid compared with earning the same returns in a taxable account.
Written by Daniel Mercer, CFP® · Reviewed by Sarah Lindqvist, CFA
Last reviewed:
Tax-free balance after 30 years
$752,573
- Total contributions
- $222,000
- Tax-free earnings
- $530,573
- Tax avoided vs. taxable earnings (22%)
- $116,726
Growth over time
What this calculator does
Every Roth IRA pitch says “tax-free growth”; almost none says what that’s worth in dollars. This calculator does. It projects your balance from a starting amount plus annual contributions at your chosen return, splits the result into your money versus earnings, and then prices the tax that those earnings would have owed at your expected rate — the number that makes the Roth’s value concrete rather than rhetorical.
How the math works
The growth is standard compound interest with annual contributions (end of year):
FV = P(1 + r)ⁿ + C · ((1 + r)ⁿ − 1) / r
where P is the current balance, C the annual contribution, r the return, n the years. The tax-avoided estimate then applies your expected retirement tax rate to the earnings portion:
tax avoided ≈ (FV − total contributions) × tax rate
It’s an approximation — a real taxable account would owe some tax along the way (dividends, distributions) and favorable capital-gains rates at the end — but it puts the benefit on the right order of magnitude.
A worked example
Starting balance $12,000, contributing $7,000 a year for 30 years at 7%, expecting a 22% tax rate in retirement:
- The $12,000 alone grows to about $91,300
- The contribution stream adds roughly $661,200
- Projected balance ≈ $752,600, of which contributions are $222,000
- Tax-free earnings: about $530,600
- Tax avoided at 22% ≈ $116,700
That six-figure last line is the Roth’s entire argument, earned by nothing more than the account’s label. And it understates the flexibility benefits: no required distributions, and tax-free means predictably tax-free — immune to whatever tax rates look like in three decades.
Practical tips
- Contribute early in the year if you can. January contributions get ~12 extra months of compounding every year. Over 30 years, the head start is worth roughly an extra year’s contribution in final balance.
- Automate monthly twelfths. If a lump sum isn’t realistic, divide the annual limit by 12 and automate it. The formula here assumes annual lumps; monthly contributions land very slightly better.
- Invest the money — don’t let it idle. A Roth IRA is a container, not an investment. Cash sitting uninvested inside one earns nothing tax-free. Pick the investments (broad index funds are the usual default) the same day you fund it.
- Coordinate with your 401(k). The match-first ordering (see FAQ) usually wins. If you expect unusually low income this year — a sabbatical, early career — that’s also prime time for Roth contributions or conversions at a low tax rate.
Why the label matters so much
Run the identical inputs through the compound interest calculator and you’ll get the same $752,600 — the growth math doesn’t know what account it lives in. The Roth’s magic is entirely in what happens at the end: in a taxable account, a six-figure slice of those earnings belongs to the IRS; in the Roth, it belongs to you. Pair this page with the 401(k) calculator to see both tax-advantaged engines running, and the retirement calculator for whether the combined total funds the retirement you actually want.
Frequently asked questions
- What makes a Roth IRA different from a traditional IRA?
- Timing of the tax. Traditional contributions may be deductible now, with withdrawals taxed as income later; Roth contributions are made with after-tax money, and qualified withdrawals — contributions and all earnings — are completely tax-free after 59½ (with the account at least five years old). Roth also has no required minimum distributions during the owner's lifetime.
- How much can I contribute per year?
- The IRS sets the annual IRA limit (shared between traditional and Roth), with a catch-up addition from age 50, and phases out direct Roth eligibility above certain incomes — see the IRS page linked below for current figures. Contributions require earned income at least equal to the contribution.
- What if my income is too high for a Roth IRA?
- Above the phase-out range, direct contributions are barred, but conversions are not — the so-called backdoor Roth: contribute non-deductible dollars to a traditional IRA, then convert. It's legal and common, with a real complication (the pro-rata rule) if you hold other pre-tax IRA money. Worth a professional's eyes the first time.
- Can I withdraw money before retirement?
- Your direct contributions (not earnings) can be withdrawn at any time, tax- and penalty-free — a flexibility no 401(k) offers. Earnings withdrawn early are generally taxed plus a 10% penalty, with exceptions (including up to $10,000 toward a first home). This makes a funded Roth a decent deep-backup emergency layer, though its real job is compounding untouched.
- Roth IRA or 401(k) first?
- The standard order: contribute to the 401(k) up to the full employer match (free money wins), then fund the Roth IRA (better fund choices, tax-free growth, flexible withdrawals), then return to the 401(k) toward its higher limit. Model both sides with this page and the 401(k) calculator.
Written by
Daniel is a Certified Financial Planner™ with 12 years of experience helping households manage debt, savings, and retirement planning. He writes ToolGrym’s calculator guides and explains the math behind every tool.
Reviewed by
Sarah is a CFA charterholder who reviews every ToolGrym calculator and article for mathematical accuracy. She has 10 years of experience in fixed-income analytics and consumer lending models.